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Jul 13, 2023

Watches & Wonders 2023: The Boldest, Most Exciting New Watches

Watches & Wonders, the world’s biggest horological tradeshow, has arrived to deliver the year’s hottest new releases from the top luxury watchmakers. So far, it’s shaping up to be a year in which many

Watches & Wonders, the world’s biggest horological tradeshow, has arrived to deliver the year’s hottest new releases from the top luxury watchmakers.

So far, it’s shaping up to be a year in which many brands are revisiting established classics or recently minted heroes. Just before the show opened to journalists and retailers on Monday, several brands released a multitude of first looks, many of them familiar takes on memorable designs. A. Lange & Söhne revisited its one and only sports model, the Odysseus, and updated it with its first in-house automatic movement. Cartier rendered its Tank Normale anew, including a few complex skeletonized versions. Now that it’s achieved a laundry list of world records for the Octo Finissimo, Bulgari decided to focus on its Octo Roma collection and revealed two particularly elevated tourbillon models. And Van Cleef & Arpels delivered another round of the extraordinary table clocks that wowed the crowds at last year’s fair, which will please any very well-heeled clients that couldn’t get their hands on the $1 million-plus museum-worthy pieces.

There will, of course, be more to come. While Patek Philippe released images of a revamped Calatrava, its other releases (as well as Rolex’s breathlessly awaited new watches) will be shared later on Monday morning. For now, here’s a taste of what’s in store for watch enthusiasts this year.

The esteemed German watchmaker is doubling down on its 4-year-old Odysseus collection of steel sport models with the debut of a timepiece featuring the manufacture’s first automatic chronograph movement. Limited to 100 pieces, the new chronograph places a premium on precision and legibility. Powered by the new L156.1 calibre, which incorporates an ingenious mechanism for resetting the chronograph hand to zero, the piece is marked by a combination of brushed surfaces and chamfered edges that emphasize its openness, as well as a dial architecture designed to create the illusion of depth.

Case Size: 42.5 mmCase Material: Stainless steelPower Reserve: 50 hoursStraps: Stainless steel braceletPrice: On request

Bulgari’s Octo Roma collection reimagines many typical watchmaking tropes through the lens of Italian flair, incorporating octagonal shapes reminiscent of ancient Roman buildings and offering a case shape that feels distinctly fresh and compelling. Expanding the basic, time-and-date Roma model this year, Bulgari is adding blue, anthracite, and white-dialed models to the lineup, each of which includes the beautiful clous de Paris motif. (This pattern, which appears as a series of small pyramids, can be found on numerous high-end timepieces from various brands.)

Each model comes in a 41 mm Octo Roma case and is powered by the automatic Calibre BVL 191 movement with a power reserve of 42 hours. Equipped with hands and indices that pop against the textured dial via a liberal coating of Super-LumiNova, each ships with both a matching rubber strap and the collection’s signature stainless steel bracelet. With its sophisticated case architecture and new, eye-catching dial design, the Octo Roma has become a competitive entry in the luxury sports watch genre that any die-hard—and even jaded—watch guy or gal would be proud to own.

Case Size: 41 mmMovement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 191 automaticPower Reserve: 42 hoursPrice: $7,300

Debuting this year within the Octo Roma collection is a new chronograph whose design cues may be familiar to some from the complication’s presence within the Octo Finissimo family. Powered by the automatic, in-house Calibre BVL 399 movement—which is visible via a sapphire caseback—it features a triple-register chronograph display with a 30-minute counter, a 12-hour counter, and a running seconds counter, plus a date window at 4:30. Subtly integrated chronograph pushers, a crown flanked by dual crown guards, and case architecture boasting a mix of polished and brushed surfaces make for a visually compelling look.

The visual star of the show is the same clous de Paris motif from the time-and-date models, available in white, anthracite, or blue and featuring a liberal coating of Super-LumiNova for nighttime legibility. Measuring 12.4mm thick and water resistant to 100m, the Octo Roma Chronograph ships on a beautiful stainless steel bracelet and also comes with a rubber strap that matches the watch’s dial color. With its striking aesthetics, beautifully designed case, in-house movement, and multiple straps, it’s a tempting alternative to something like the Speedmaster, Daytona, or an El Primero.

Case Size: 42 mmMovement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 399 AutomaticPower Reserve: 42 hoursPrice: $9,150

A ladies’ offering, the Octo Roma Precious Tourbillon Lumière competes squarely with any Octo men’s watch for sheer horological firepower but pairs it with a positively breathtaking case with more diamonds than a De Beers showroom. Measuring 38mm in rose gold, it’s set with no less than 267 round, brilliant-cut diamonds, plus a bezel set with 48 more—plus a rose gold crown set with a cabochon-cut ruby. (And if that isn’t enough diamonds and precious metal for you, you should consider moving into Buckingham Palace, because you may very well be the Queen of England.)

And on to the timekeeping: Powered by the manually wound, skeletonized Calibre BVL 208, it features small, central hands poised above a tourbillon housed at 6 o’clock. The rose gold movement is entirely hand decorated and boasts 64 hours of power reserve—more than enough to power it through the weekend. The dial itself is set with diamonds and nine brilliant-cut rubies to indicate the hours—in case you needed more bling. (Total carat count: ~5.05 for the diamonds, and ~0.18 for the rubies.) Paired with a red alligator strap with a diamond-set folding buckle, this is surely a timepiece for the woman who has everything else.

Case Size: 38 mmMovement: Panerai Calibre BVL 208 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 64 hoursPrice: $171,000

Joining the Octo lineup is a precious metal doozy of a timepiece machined from gold and equipped with a flying tourbillon for good measure. Dubbed the Octo Roma Precious Naturalia, it celebrates the natural beauty of tiger’s eye, which is used in the construction of the dial indices. (More on that in a moment.) Housed in a 44mm, satin-brushed rose gold case measuring 11.35mm tall and water resistant to 50m, its stunning, skeletonized dial features a tiger’s eye plate with ample brown and gold accents, plus thin shavings of the same material that cover each of the 13 dial indices. Because of the unique properties of the stone, each dial is a one-of-a-kind piece of art.

Completing the gold aesthetic of the dial is a set of skeletonized hands and a flying tourbillon situated above 6 o’clock, plus a fully visible gear train. Powered by the manually wound, in-house BVL 206 movement with 64 hours of power reserve and paired with a brown alligator strap with a rose gold folding buckle, this is most certainly not a watch for someone who wants to fly under the radar—rather, it’s a prominent statement piece meant to exhibit every last ounce of Bulgari’s watchmaking savoir faire.

Case Size: 44 mmMovement: Panerai BVL 206 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 64 hoursPrice: $149,000

For those for whom the standard Octo Roma offerings are insufficiently avant-garde, may we introduce the Octo Roma Striking Tourbillon Sapphire, which includes a unique complication: Housed in a 44mm titanium case with black DLC coating, it features a crown with a special push-button device at 3 o’clock. Engage this button, and a small red dot in the winding stem indicates that the crown can now be adjusted. Re-engage the button and the time setting is now deactivated, and the crown can be used for manual winding of the tourbillon-equipped movement.

With its completely transparent sapphire dial, mid-case, and back, the watch’s skeletonized movement—the Calibre BVL 206 with 64 hours of power reserve—is on full display. Bright green Super-LumiNova-filled indices and a white-tipped handset discreetly handle time-telling duties, while the flying tourbillon is situated above 6 o’clock. With its rubberized, black alligator strap with green stitching and titanium folding buckle, this futuristic offering is one of the standout models in the current Octo Roma collection, and proof that the Octo Finissimo line isn’t the only place where Bulgari’s most innovative watchmaking can be found.

Case Size: 44mmMovement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 206 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 64 hoursPrice: $78,000

Sticking with the black DLC titanium theme, we have a striking-looking—(actually, “striking” is even in the name)—piece, also with a flying tourbillon, but with the addition of a special minute display and a jumping hour display. Dubbed the Octo Roma Striking Papillon Tourbillon and housed in a semi-tactical, very futuristic looking 44 mm Octo case measuring 11.9 mm thick and featuring a sapphire mid-case, its dial looks like something out of a cool science fiction novel.

A mix of blacks and greens and transparent surfaces, the dial features a central tourbillon with a jumping hour display poised above it, plus a semi-circular minute display below. Along this display traverses a “butterfly” minute counter with dual, diamond-shaped hands—once the first counter reaches the end of the 60-minute display, the hands rotate 180 degrees, and the secondary hand retraces the path back along the arc. Powered by the hand-wound Calibre BVL 348 movement with 60 hours of power reserve and lit with plenty of Super-LumiNova, it’s paired with a rubberized black alligator strap with green stitching and a titanium folding buckle.

Case Size: 44 mmMovement: Bulgari Calibre BVL 348 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 60 hoursPrice: $119,000

For the past seven years, Cartier has selected a historic model from its archives (say, the Crash, the Tank Cintrée, or the Cloche), given it a fresh new design spin, and marketed it as a numbered and limited edition under its sought-after Cartier Privé label, a “collector’s collection,” as the brand calls it.

New to Privé this year, the Tank Normale offers seven takes on Cartier’s defining timepiece, the 1917 Tank. They include an hour/minute version—in yellow gold with a brown alligator strap or in platinum with a black alligator strap—that takes its proportions and beveled sapphire crystal from the original, as well as a complicated and skeletonized model that features a 24-hour complication marked by a sun and crescent moon, in either yellow gold or platinum (the latter available with or without diamonds). And in a groovy nod to 1970s style, the collection for the first time includes two models that come on yellow gold or platinum bracelets.

Case Size: 32.6 mm x 25.7 mm for the basic Tank Normale; 35.2 mm x 27.8 mm for the skeletonized versionCase Material: 18k yellow gold and platinumPower Reserve: 36-38 hoursStraps: Alligator straps in grey, brown, blue, and black, and 18k yellow gold and platinum braceletsPrice: TBC

Between its stylish mix of round and square shapes, and intriguing juxtaposition of faceted corners and beveled dials, the new Clash [Un]Limited watch evokes the legacy of Jeanne Toussaint, the legendary designer who, as director of Cartier’s high jewelry department from 1933 to 1970, “dared to provoke glittering collisions between preciousness and the industrial aesthetic of ball bearings,” according to a press release.

All five quartz-powered variations of the Clash [Un]Limited revel in contrasts (say, between brushed and satin finishes), but none as unexpectedly as the colored stone version, which comes in an enchanting gem-set case distinguished by surprising pairings of brilliant white diamonds, bright red coral, and mint green chrysoprase.Case Size: 18.4 x 32.7 mm for the small modelsCase Material: 18k yellow, rose, white and purple goldStraps: 18k yellow, rose, white, and purple gold braceletsPrice: TBC

Cartier’s sextet of new Santos-Dumont styles includes a trio of manual-wind XL models in platinum, rose gold, and yellow gold. The standout features are dials decorated with Roman numerals cut directly in jasper, jade, and dumortierite, to match the colors of the cabochons on the winding crowns.

For anyone who enjoys gazing at a complex movement, the Santos-Dumont Skeleton watch—available in a case made of yellow gold, rose gold, or steel—is just the ticket.

Case Size: 46.6 mm x 33.9 mm for colorful versions, 31 mm for skeleton editionCase Material: 18k rose gold, 18k yellow gold and platinumStraps: Alligator straps in green, blue, grey, burgundy, and brownPrice: TBC

The storied Santos line now includes three models featuring deeply saturated dials in green and navy blue, coated in a thin layer of tinted lacquer and applied by hand.

Case Size: 35.1 mm for the two medium models, and 39.8 mm for the large Case Material: SteelStraps: Interchangeable straps in steel and alligatorPrice: TBC

For more than a century, the Tank watch by Cartier, not to mention the family of timepieces it spawned, has adorned the wrists of the global elite. No wonder the Maison is perpetually recreating it. This year sees updates to three classic Tank models: the Tank Américaine, the Tank Française, and the Tank Louis Cartier.

The Tank Américaine was born in 1989 when the maison introduced a slender version of the model in a gently curved case reminiscent of the Tank Cintrée. For 2023, the house revisited the Tank Américaine in 11 new styles (nine featuring quartz movements) designed to be even slimmer. Available in all-gold and steel with a leather strap, rose gold and diamonds with a leather strap or diamond-paved white and rose gold with a metal bracelet, the Tank Américaine is proof that thin is perennially in.

The Tank Française made its debut in 1996 in a chic metal bracelet style. Now, the quartz-powered steel watch features a revamped bracelet with a gentle curve to fit all wrists. Note the diamond-set brancards, which play off the model’s polished finishes and sunray-brushed dial.

In 1921, Cartier widened the Tank’s case, refined its brancards and softened its edges to create the Tank Louis Cartier. New for this year is an LC model in yellow or rose gold on an alligator strap with a graphic motif on the dial rendered in three shades of gold—an homage to the Tank Must dials of the 1970s. The Tank Louis Cartier also comes in two minimalist colored dial editions: one in lacquered burgundy and the other in a Platonic green, both encased in yellow gold. All three models feature the manual winding 1917 MC movement.

Case Size: 28 mm x 15.2 mm for the Tank Américaine mini, 35.4 mm x 19.4 mm for the Tank Américaine small, 44.4 mm x 24.4 mm for the Tank Américaine large, 25.7 mm x 21.2 mm for the Tank Française small, 32 mm x 27 mm for the Tank Française medium and 33.7 mm x 25.5 mm for the Tank Louis CartierCase Material: Steel, 18k yellow gold, 18k rose gold, 18k white goldStraps: Alligator straps in dark blue, dark brown, red, grey, taupe and greenPrice: TBC

J12 Hyper Cybernetic

Pixelation was never this pretty. Chanel’s new Hyper Cybernetic version of its iconic J12 watch makes a bitmap beautiful with 240 brilliant-cut diamonds in a graphic interpretation that plays on the contrast between the gems and the matte black ceramic of the dial, case and bezel.Case Size: 38 mmCase Material: Matte black ceramic and 18k white goldPower Reserve: 70 hoursStraps: Matte black ceramic braceletPrice: On request

Taken together, this set of seven watches, each a piece unique, is the horological equivalent of a solar eclipse. From the first watch, in all white ceramic, to the seventh watch, in all black, the timepieces—which come equipped with automatic calibers certified by the Swiss Official Chronometer Testing Institute—are gradually eclipsed by a black band that grows wider with each successive model.

Case Size: 38 mmCase Material: Matte black and white ceramic Power Reserve: 70 hoursStraps: Matte black and white ceramic braceletPrice: On request

The fragment of meteorite that forms the dial of this striking black ceramic timepiece isn’t its only distinctive element. Set atop the cage of the flying tourbillon—marking the first time the Monsieur watch has featured the complication—is a lion head décor plate depicting the maison’s emblem. With the passing of each second, it spins in all its leonine majesty.

Case Size: 42 mmCase Material: Matte black ceramic and steelPower Reserve: 72 hoursStraps: Black nylon strap with black calfskin trim and lining Price: On request

J12 X-Ray Star

Chanel looked to time travel and other sci-fi concepts to find the inspiration for its new Interstellar capsule collection of timepieces, including the gleaming J12 X-Ray Star. Set with 196 baguette-cut diamonds (totaling nearly 16 carats) around the bezel and case, the manual-wind timepiece is available in a numbered and limited edition of 12 pieces.

Case Size: 38 mmCase Material: 18k white goldPower Reserve: 55 hoursStraps: 18k white gold braceletPrice: On requestJ12 Spatiotemporal

The difference between Chanel’s two new Spatiotemporal timepieces is in the diamonds: One features 3.52 carats of baguette-cut gems, and the other a whopping 8.87 carats. Limited to 12 pieces, each black-and-white edition is powered by a chronometer-certified automatic movement hidden beneath its graphic face.Case Size: 38 mmCase Material: Matte black and white ceramicPower Reserve: 70 hoursStraps: Matte black and white ceramic braceletPrice: On requestObjet Lion Astroclock

Chanel honors its founder, Gabrielle Bonheur “Coco” Chanel, in its latest objet, an astroclock that celebrates her star sign, Leo, the zodiac’s most confident and luxury-loving denizen. Enclosed within the clock’s glass sphere is a manual winding mechanical movement designed by Chanel Watchmaking Creative Studio and developed and manufactured by l’Epée. Adorned with a comet in 18k white gold and a constellation-shaped handset with diamonds, the movement sits atop a plinth featuring a sculpted brass lion coated in black. Available in a limited edition of five.Dimensions:34.2 x 20.6 x 17.6 cmCase Material: 18k white goldPrice: On request

Hand-wound chronographs are prized among collectors, and Chopard’s contribution to this elite genre, a 25-piece limited-edition flyback chronograph with Geneva Seal certification, is likely to disappear fast. The L.U.C 1963 Heritage Chronograph has a minimalist, no-date dial, and a case made of Lucent steel, Chopard’s proprietary steel alloy made of 80% recycled elements. Vintage details include the car-dashboard-style hour markers from 05-60 for chronograph minutes and seconds, along with mushroom-shaped pushers and eco-green dial with matching stitching on the strap. Modern technology allows for a sapphire caseback through which to admire the decorated movement, the star of the show (sapphire crystals weren’t around in the ’60s). The Chopard hand-wound flyback chronograph caliber L.U.C 03.07-L is chronometer certified, with a 60-hour power reserve. Finishes include rhodium-plated bridges, yokes, levers and column wheel, circular graining for the base, straight-graining for the chronograph components and a Côtes de Genève motif on the bridges.

Case Size: 42 mm by 14.55 mmCase Material: Lucent steelPower Reserve: 60 hoursStraps: Brown calfskin, green lining, green bridle stitching with pin bucklePrice: Limited to 25, Upon Request

Chopard loves its traditions, and the annual Mille Miglia collector’s edition is one of is most enduring. Chopard has been timing the scenic race from Brescia to Rome since 1988 and co-President Karl-Friedrich Scheufele has personally taken part in the race every year since, covering more than 30,000 competition miles. This year’s edition, the 36th in the annual series, is slightly smaller than others, at 40.5mm, which makes it a little more wearable (and perfect for a ladies’ wrist!).

The case, bezel and crowns are made of Lucent steel, a Chopard alloy that it says is 50% harder than conventional steel. There are four dial color options, matched to the paintwork and interiors of classic cars: Verde Chiaro (light green) and Rosso Amarena (cherry red), Nero Corsa (racing black) and, on a two-tone steel and gold model, Grigio-Blue (grey blue). A tachymeter scale is essential for calculating speed and distances, and plenty of Grade XI Super-LumiNova helps to navigate after dark. A slim bezel maximizes the depth of the dial.

Case Size: 40.5 mm by 12.88 mmCase Material: Lucent steel or Lucent steel and 18k rose goldPower Reserve: 54 hoursStraps: Black rubber with 1960s Dunlop racing tire motif or calfskin leather.

The lotus flower is the signature motif of Chopard’s Imperiale collection. The model was launched in 1994, and the lotus motif has appeared in various ways on its dials, cases, crowns and movements ever since. In 2017, Chopard won the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève in the jewelry category with the Lotus Blanc, with diamond-set petals opening and closing at will on the dial. The new Imperiale depicts the lotus flower with overlapping petals within a polished rose gold lacework. Some of the gold petals are engraved and satin-brushed. These openworked petals are positioned against a disk that rotates once every 24 hours to represent night and day. After midnight, the star-studded sapphire dome representing night gives way to morning light represented by a white diamond sky. It was created using several artisanal techniques, starting with a mother-of-pearl disk that is lacquered in a cerulean gradient that, at night time, is decorated with seven gold-powder stars. Sapphires in six gradient shades of blue express the transition from day to night. Snow-set diamonds represent the daytime sky. The steady motion of the disk is driven by the L.U.C 96.30-L, with a 65-hour power reserve. Case, horns, bezel and inner dial ring are set with diamonds.

Case Size: 36 mm by 10.15 mmCase Material: 18k rose goldPower Reserve: 65 hoursStraps: Seamless blue pearlescent alligator with 18k gold pink bucklePrice: Limited to 25, $90,700

Chopard has been beefing up its Alpine Eagle collection recently, instilling the sporty model with complications and high watchmaking finishes. The new 41 XPS is a chronometer-certified, with a small seconds indicator, and is finished to the standards of the Poinçon de Genève. The ultra-thin (8mm) case is made of Lucent steel A223, which Chopard ays is ultra-resistant and takes a high polish, and it’s made of 85% recycled materials. Double barrels driving the flagship caliber L.U.C 96.40-L ensure a 65-hour power reserve. The “monte rose pink” dial is named for the second-highest mountain range in the Swiss Alps, and their characteristic pinkish shimmer. It resembles the salmon tint that is so popular in high-end sports watches at the moment. The finish is inspired by the eagle’s iris. It can be admired on a larger plane than previous models, since the bezel of this one is trimmed back.

Case Size: 41 mm by 8 mmCase Material: Lucent steel A223Power Reserve: 65 hoursStraps: Lucent steel A223 braceletPrice: $22,500

Every ounce of Grand Seiko’s watchmaking prowess is on display in the new SBGD213: a Spring Drive-powered masterpiece, it’s hand-set with 5.62 carats’ worth of diamonds, and 1.25 carats of blue sapphires. Housed in a truly magnificent, highly angular, Zaratsu-polished platinum case recalling the lion—Grand Seiko’s spirit animal, so to speak—it features 112 diamonds along its upper surfaces and a further 60 baguette-cut stones along the bezel. Even the crown is inset with a brilliant-cut sapphire that matches perfectly the deep blue color of the dial.

Speaking of the dial: blue sapphires and baguette diamonds—each of which has been set by hand between pairs of 18K white gold rails—form the hour and minute indices. Executed by the Shinshu Watch Studio in the Shiojiri facility in Nagano prefecture, they make for a stunning display, and are further joined by an additional 48 diamonds and 12 blue sapphires around their periphery. Flipping the watch over reveals the Spring Drive movement sat beneath a sapphire caseback: With its one-piece bridge and Mt. Fuji-inspired design, the Caliber 9R01 is accurate to an impressive +/- 10 seconds per month and offers an 8-day power reserve due to three barrels arranged in sequence.

Case Size: 44.5 mmMovement: Grand Seiko Caliber 9R01 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 8 daysPrice: $260,000

A special limited-edition model within the Masterpiece Collection, the new SBGZ009 features a stunning, fully engraved case executed by hand in the town of Shiojiri by elite Grand Seiko craftsmen. Inspired by a forest of white birch trees at the foot of the North Yatsugatake Mountains in the eastern part of Shinshu, it’s housed in a 38.5mm platinum case and paired to a silver dial.

Superb craftsmanship characterizes this timepiece: each case is polished to a distortion-free sheen via the Zaratsu technique, after which it’s hand engraved with individual grooves by engravers at the Shinshu Watch Studio. A silver dial in the brand’s beautiful birch pattern is joined by 14K white gold, diamond-cut hour markers, plus a handset with curved minute and seconds hands and a minute track that’s carved into the dial periphery. Powered by the manually wound Spring Drive Caliber 9R02 with an 84-hour power reserve, it’s accurate to an incredible one second per day, and comes paired to a black crocodile strap with three-fold clasp and push button release.

Case Size: 38.5mmMovement: Grand Seiko Spring Drive Caliber 9R02Power Reserve: 84 hoursPrice: $79,000

A truly notable release, the Evolution 9 Collection Tentagraph SLGC001 is Grand Seiko’s first mechanical chronograph. An entry within the Evolution 9 sports watch collection, it’s powered by the 9SC5, which chirps along at 10 beats per second and features dual barrels for a power reserve of three days, even when the chronograph is in operation—making it, according to GS’s research, the 10-beat chronograph with the longest power reserve on the market. Tested for 20 days to ensure that it meets the Grand Seiko Standard of +5 to -3 seconds per day, it’s also highly accurate and thoughtfully engineered.

Housed in a Zaratsu-polished 43.2mm titanium case with a box-shaped sapphire crystal featuring anti-reflective coating, paired to a matching bracelet with a three-fold clasp with push button release, and complemented with a screw-down crown and a sapphire case back, the Tentagraph has a handsome dial to match its impressive construction and movement: Executed in a blue “Mt. Iwate” pattern, it boasts a triple-register chronograph display, a date window at 4:30, beautifully polished, applied indices and hands, and a black ceramic bezel with a tachymeter scale. Not bad for a first effort at a mechanical chronograph!

Case Size: 43.2 mmMovement: Grand Seiko 9SC5Power Reserve: 72 hoursPrice: $13,700

Whether one loves or hates its case silhouettes, there’s simply no denying that Hublot is at the cutting edge of what it terms “the art of fusion”—integrating disparate materials that come together in a cohesive whole to tell a uniquely contemporary horological story. This year, this fusion has been put on full display in the form of the Big Bang Integrated Tourbillon Automatic Full Texalium-Carbon, a watch that surely knows few equals with regard to aesthetics, engineering, or creativity.

Measuring 43mm in ultra-lightweight carbon fiber, the watch is coated in Taxalium, a material that integrates fiberglass in a resin core with a thin layer of aluminum for increased impact resistance. Paired with a specially fabricated Texalium and carbon fiber strap that weighs just 26 grams and features individually machined and finished links, the Integrated Tourbillon Automatic is powered by the HUB6035 Manufacture Calibre movement, which features a micro-rotor and tourbillon as well as a 72-hour power reserve. With its mesmerizing looks, incredible engineering, and lightweight construction, it’s surely one of the standout references in the Big Bang lineup.

Case Size: 43 mmMovement: Hublot HUB6035 Manufacture Calibre AutomaticPower Reserve: 72 hoursPrice: TBC

2023 marks the entry of several firsts into the Hublot catalog, the latest of which is impossible to miss: the new 44mm Big Bang MP-13 Tourbillon Bi-Axis Bi-Retrograde Titanium is an absolute bruiser of a watch combining—for the first time in the brand’s history—a tourbillon and retrograde display in one timepiece. And not just any tourbillon, mind you: Hublot’s status as a completely integrated manufacture has allowed it to develop a bi-axis tourbillon entirely in-house, a considerable horological feat. (The tourbillon makes one rotation every minute on one axis, and one rotation every 30 seconds on its second axis).

Skeletonized and suspended without the use of an upper movement bridge, this impressive complication—and the HUB6200 manually wound movement housing it—is visible via anti-reflective sapphire crystal on both sides of the case. An impressive 96-hour power reserve ensures that the mesmerizing tourbillon can run for days without the need for winding. Limited to just 50 numbered pieces, it’s made of satin-finished and polished titanium and comes paired to a black rubber strap.

Case Size: 44 mmMovement: Hublot HUB6200 Manufacture Calibre Manual WindingPower Reserve: 96 hoursPrice: TBC

Building upon the success of 2022’s Square Big Bang Unico, Hublot is expanding the collection with a unique sapphire variant meant to showcase the brand’s tremendous savoir faire and expertise with cutting-edge materials. Part of a limited run of 250 pieces, this impressive, transparent timepiece has a water resistance of 50m despite the challenges of engineering not only a square case but one machined from multi-layered sapphire. Powered by an in-house movement dubbed the HUB1280, it features a 72-hour power reserve, automatic winding, and a column wheel flyback chronograph complication. All of this impressive clockwork can, of course, be admired via the watch’s openwork dial and sapphire case.

Fitted to a rubber strap with a titanium deployant clasp, the Big Bang Square Unico Sapphire is further joined by two sister references in black or white ceramic, which are powered by the same movement, but aren’t limited editions. Each watch features the “One Click” system, meaning its straps can easily be swapped out for other Hublot bracelets.

Case Size: 50 mmMovement: Hublot HUB1280 Manufacture Calibre AutomaticPower Reserve: 72 hoursPrice: $95,000 (sapphire); $27,000 (ceramic)

IWC is reviving the Ingenieur Reference 1832, along with the man who created it, Gerald Genta, the maestro of watch design. The Ingenieur (“engineer” in French) was IWC’s ultimate answer to the Asian-invasion of affordable quartz watches and the decline of traditional gold dress watches in the 1970s. An early version of the Ingenieur was introduced in the late ’50s, but the model really came into its own when IWC decided to enlist Genta in the 1970s to redesign it according to the spirit of the times. His brief was to create a robust yet elegant steel sports watch that would be accessible and unique. In 1976, Genta delivered the SL ref. 1832 Ingenieur in a 40mm steel case with an integrated steel bracelet, a checkerboard-pattern dial and a distinctive screw-on bezel with five recesses. Because 40mm seemed huge at the time, the watch was nicknamed the “Jumbo.” Genta had already designed Audemars Piguet’s now-iconic Royal Oak by then, and would go on to design Patek Philippe’s legendary Nautilus a year later. The new Ingenieur Automatic 40 is a tribute to the original 40mm Jumbo. Updates include a slightly curved case ring and a redesigned bracelet with closed links and no visible pins. On the original bezel, the screws were decorative, but on the new one, the five screws secure the bezel to the case ring, so they have a technical function as well. The dial has the same grid pattern as the original. Dial options include black, silver-plated or aqua. All contain the IWC-manufactured 32111 caliber with a power reserve of 72 hours.

Case Size: 40 mmCase Material: Stainless steelPower Reserve: 72 hoursStraps: stainless steel bracelet with butterfly folding claspPrice: TBC

In 1858, Charles-Ivan Robert opened a workshop on the site of an ancient mill in the Swiss village of Villeret. In homage to his fascination with Roman mythology, he named it Fabrique d’Horlogerie Minerva. The firm survived the ravages of the 1970s, clinging to its independence until 2006, when it was acquired by Financière Richemont and transferred to Montblanc.

In the intervening years, the German brand has used Minerva’s legacy as a springboard for contemporary creations in its 1858 collection—chief among them the new 1858 Unveiled Secret Minerva Monopusher Chronograph, available in a limited edition of 88 pieces. Equipped with a historic hand-wound Minerva MB M16.29 movement that’s been flipped over so its complexity is visible on the dial, the watch comes in a steel case with a black coating brushed with quartzite and limestones from the nearby mountains, lending the watch a uniquely distressed look that belies its elegance.

Case Size: 43 mmCase Material: Distressed steelPower Reserve: 50 hoursStraps: Black nubuck alligator leather strapPrice: $36,500

The Nepal-born mountaineer Nimsdai Purja is the inspiration for Montblanc’s new limited edition Geosphere automatic chronograph, a limited edition of 290 pieces that features a worldtime complication complete with two 3D globes—the Northern Hemisphere at 12 o’clock and the Southern Hemisphere at six o’clock. The former bears 14 orange dots, marking the location of the world’s 8,000+-meter peaks.

On the back of the watch’s 44 mm titanium case, a 3D colored laser engraving depicts the list of the 14 peaks, the name of the watch, two inspirational quotes from Nimsdai and three Himalayan prayer flags for good fortune. Last but not least, the watch comes with an interchangeable anthracite textile strap that borrows its design from a rope, a tool that no mountaineer can do without.

Case Size: 44 mmCase Material: TitaniumPower Reserve: 46 hoursStraps: Interchangeable anthracite textile strapPrice: $9,800

Famed for its simple, time-only military watches, Panerai has been steadily expanding its offerings to include more complicated pieces executed in new, forward-thinking materials. New this year is a complication that has never before been part of the Panerai oeuvre—namely, an annual calendar. Housed within a 45mm Radiomir cushion case with “wire”-type lugs and onion crown, the PAM01363 features Goldtech construction, combining platinum and copper for a red appearance. Its sun-brushed blue gradient dial is an exercise in legibility, with a day-date display at 3 o’clock, a running seconds display at 9 o’clock, and an outer, rotating month disc with a fixed arrow at 3 o’clock as an indicator. Of course, the famous Radiomir “sandwich” dial is also present and accounted for.

Also available is a special Experience edition, the reference PAM01432. Purchasing this Platinumtech-cased beauty with its sun-brushed burgundy dial will get you a ticket to a Panerai-led experience in Rome, with “events that combine artisanal know-how, culture, and tours of historical sites.” Whichever reference you spring for, you’re getting an incredible, complicated timepiece powered by the P.9010/AC automatic movement, with 40 jewels, dual barrels, and 316 components.

Case Size: 45 mmMovement: Panerai P.9010/AC AutomaticPower Reserve: 72 hoursPrice: TBC

While Panerai has long produced a version of its famed “California dial” Radiomir in the positively enormous size of 47mm, it has never ventured smaller. This year, the Italian-founded military outfitter has finally seen fit to shrink this model down to something that’s (slightly) more wearable for someone with a sub-8-inch wrist: Please join us in welcoming the 45mm Radiomir California PAM01349! With a deep green dial, this one is a playful twist on the typical “California” formula.

Taking inspiration from the historical reference 3646, it features the famous half-Roman, half-Arabic numerals of the “California” look, plus an outer railroad minute track and a lumed, blued steel sword handset. Cased in Brunito eSteel—a type of recycled metal with its origins in different industries—the watch features brand new hand finishing that gives it a cool, vintage look. It’s powered by the hand-wound Calibre P.5000 with an 8-day power reserve, and comes paired to a calf leather strap in dark brown with contrast stitching.

Case Size: 45 mmCase Material: Brunito eSteelMovement: Panerai Calibre P.5000 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 8 daysPrice: TBC

Available in two compelling colors, the new Radiomir Otto Giorno recalls some of the earliest Panerai models made exclusively for military use in the 1930s. Housed in a 45mm e-Steel case whose PVD exterior is hand finished for a unique, vintage-inspired look, the watch features most of the characteristics that fans have come to expect from the typical Panerai diver: a highly legible “sandwich” dial with ample lume; a cushion case with “wire” lugs and an onion crown; and a hand-wound movement with an ample power reserve—in this case, the Calibre P.5000 that can run for eight days when fully wound, which lends the piece its name in Italian.

Both the dark brown (PAM0347) and blue (PAM01348) gradient dials transition from a darker edge to a lighter center, echoing the grainy, color-changed appearance of certain early aluminum Panerai dials. Paired to Cuoio Toscano calf leather straps that match their respective dials and are meant to take on a distinct patina with time, each is a fitting tribute to the legacy of this most distinctive of specialist, legacy watchmakers.

Case Size: 45 mmMovement: Panerai Calibre P.5000 Hand-WoundPower Reserve: 8 daysPrice: TBC

Did we mention that Panerai’s focus this year is on the Radiomir collection? (Well: Panerai’s focus this year is on the Radiomir collection.) So without further ado, here’s one more Radiomir release to tickle your vintage-inspired fancy: the Quaranta in Goldtech. Godltech is Panerai’s own proprietary blend of gold, platinum, and copper that shines in a bold red color—and nowhere does it look better than constituting the case of this most contemporary of Radiomirs.

Shrunk down from its 47mm origins, the Quaranta is so named for its 40mm size. At just 10.15mm thick—the slimmest in the brand’s entire oeuvre—it makes for a highly wearable, everyday watch…provided you can pull off a hulking hunk of gold on an everyday basis. Paired to an elegant alligator strap and fitted with a radially brushed, white “sandwich” dial, it’s powered by the impressive Calibre P.9000, an automatic movement measuring just 4.2mm tall and boasting a three-day power reserve. Positioned as a genderless, versatile piece for any type person on any occasion, it’s certainly a stunner and a fabulous example of Panerai’s adaptation of military-born tech into a contemporary guise.

Case Size: 40mmMovement: Panerai Calibre P.9000 AutomaticPower Reserve: 72 hours Price: TBC

Parmigiani Fleurier Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante

Those who were paying attention to the new releases of Watches & Wonders 2022 will remember well a brand new complication debuted by Parmigiani Fluerier—namely, the Tonda PF GMT Rattrapante. This innovative watch features two superimposed hour hands, one of which only becomes visible upon activation via a pusher in the case flank. Thus, while tracking a second time zone when needed is a cinch, returning the timepiece to standard time-keeping mode allows one to retain the elegant profile of a time-only watch.

This year, PF is further riffing on the idea of the rattrapante (“flyback”) complication with the Tonda PF Minute Rattrapante: In this model, dual superimposed minute hands one in rhodium-plated gold and one in 18K rose gold—are joined by a monopusher button the crown and dual buttons on the left-hand case flank. Upon activation, the two minute hands separate. The rose gold hand can then be jumped in 1- or 5-minute intervals, allowing one to calculate elapsed time via the difference between the two minute hands.

In seeking to reinterpret the utility of the dive bezel in a bezel-less watch, Parmigiani has thus developed an entirely new complication — and an extremely elegant looking one, at that! Housed in a 40mm platinum case and featuring a sand grey dial, it’s powered by the new PF052 automatic movement with a micro-rotor and incredible finishing, which is thankfully visible via a sapphire caseback.

Diameter: 40mmMovement: Parmigiani Fleurier PF052 automaticPower Reserve: 48 hoursPrice: CHF 28,000

Parmigiani Fleurier Cultural Calendars Trilogy Set

If one ultra-complicated calendar watch isn’t enough, perhaps we can interest you in a set of three — each of which uses a different type of calendar stemming from a different culture? To our minds, if you’ve got a half-million dollars burning a hole in your pocket, we’re not sure there’s a better option out there.

The Cultural Calendars Trilogy Set — which is only available in three examples — consists of three platinum watches: The first is the (more) traditional Tonda PF Gregorian Calendar with a moon phase and a retrograde date display, outfitted with date and month subdials in English. Measuring 42mm and powered by an automatic movement, it has a stunning, sandblasted platinum dial and a matching, platinum bracelet that give it a cohesive look.

The second timepiece is the Tonda PF Xiali Calendar, a type of Chinese calendar that consists of a synchronized dance of solar and lunar timekeeping. One look at the dial and you’ll get some idea of just how sophisticated the PF008 automatic movement truly is. (Thankfully, even if you can’t understand the intricacies of the complex timekeeping going on, the watch still makes for a stunning piece of horological art!) It too measures 42mm wide in platinum.

The third watch in the set is the Tonda PF Hijri Perpetual Calendar. Based on a table clock restored by Parmigiani in 2011 and subsequently converted into wristwatch form, it’s an Islamic lunar calendar whose origins date back to the time of the prophet Muhammad in the seventh century AD. Based on the automatic PH009 movement, it’s housed in a 42mm platinum case.

Patek Philippe just released three new Calatrava references, each with a white gold case, ebony dials and its own accent color: red, yellow, or pale blue, rendered on the seconds track, seconds hand, indexes, and the stitching of the matching leather strap. The intriguing dials feature a crosshatch pattern reminiscent of carbon fiber, which matches the treatment on the strap, giving each of the trio a distinctly sporty feel. Case Material: White goldStraps: Leather with yellow, red, or blue stitchingMovement: Self-winding calibre 26-330 S CPrice: TBC

Piaget Hidden Treasures

A trio of high jewelry additions to Piaget’s Hidden Treasures collection offer a fresh take on the classic cuff watch.The dial is partially covered by the bracelet in a way that looks like the metal was randomly torn away, leaving an asymmetrical rough edge that resembles modern sculpture. The dial that does show is hardstone, a longtime Piaget specialty, and the half bezel that shows is set with colored gemstones. The bracelet is engraved using a traditional technique that Piaget has made into a specialty. Incisions are made in the gold using the sharp tip of a burin. There are three models. The Palace Decor Turquoise Dial has a pink gold bracelet inspired by the guilloché technique traditionally used on watches. The irregular streaks are manually engraved making each bracelet one-of-a-kind. The dial is turquoise, and the bezel is set with a gradient of sapphires. The bracelet of the Wood Decor White Opal Dial is engraved in a wood bark pattern, with diamonds set into the gold in irregular rows between the bark layers. The dial is opal and the bezel is set with diamonds. The white gold bracelet of the Frost Decor Black Opal Dial is engraved to mimic the way winter frost sparkles in the sunlight. The dial is black opal (which isn’t really black), surrounded by a gradient of emeralds on the bezel.

Case Material: 18k white or 18k rose goldMovement: Quartz Straps: 18k white or 18k rose goldPrice: Frost Decor Black Opal Dial, $151,000; Wood Decor White Opal Dial, $145,000; Palace Decor Turquoise Dial, price on request.

Piaget Polo Perpetual Calendar Blue Obsidian Dial

The Polo Perpetual Calendar now has a dial that makes it even more Piaget. The signature Polo design, first launched in 1979, has been embellished with a hardstone dial, another feature that is pure Piaget. The stone is obsidian, which is slightly iridescent, with a cloudy matrix that makes each sample unique. It is combined here with a sapphire bezel for a true blue-on-blue vibe, along with a high complication, a perpetual calendar. The result is a sporty, glamorous (yet androgynous) interpretation of high horology. In a commendable attention to detail, the sapphires are set into blackened gold, making for an uninterrupted tone-on-tone palette. It contains the ultra-thin automatic caliber 1255P, keeping the case to a reasonable 8.65mm thickness.

Case Size: 42 mm x 8.65Case Material: 18k white goldMovement: Automatic caliber 1255PStraps: blue alligator or rubberPrice: $114,000

Roger Dubuis watches seem to exist in two parallel universes. On the one hand, every single watch is finished in excruciating detail according to the traditional finishing conventions outlined by the Geneva Seal. On the other hand, every watch has the aesthetic of a hyper-modern, colorful, openworked, technically futuristic superwatch. They always look as if they have somehow exploded into being, in a good way. Roger Dubuis is also known for its tourbillons, and the Monovortex Split Seconds Chronograph has one of those, positioned on 360-degree conical trajectory. It also has a turborotor: a cylindrical oscillating weight that rotates perpendicular to its axis. The caliber RD114 movement also drives a split-seconds chronograph controlled by a double-column wheel. And there’s an angular, isotoxal-shaped minute counter, a tripartite hand that Roger Dubuis calls the (120° Rotating Minute Counter, with arms that carry the tens digits (0,1 or 2) while pointing out the units digit. The case is made of a mineral composite fiber (MCF that is 99.95 percent silica, made via a sheet molding compound (SMC) process. Duguis says it is 13 percent lighter than SMC carbon. Certainly not your average traditional wristwatch.

Case Size: 47 mmCase Material: Mineral composite fiber (MCF)Straps: Bi-material fabricPrice: Upon Request

Remember that stunning, diamond-encrusted TAG Heuer Carrera Plasma Diamont d’Avant Garde from 2022? Well, there’s another one this year—and it’s even more diamond-y. The new Plasma sets artificial diamonds all throughout the bezel, bracelet, dial, crown, and more, making for a stealthily blingy watch—and we say “stealthy” because the entire case is black aluminum—that nevertheless delivers a serious horological punch in the form of the Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph COSC movement with tourbillon.

A whopping 15.5 carats of lab-grown diamonds—124 of ‘em, for those who are counting—encrust every available centimeter of this timepiece. (Even the indices are diamonds!) Housed in a 44mm sandblasted aluminum case with a 2.5-carat diamond crown, its dial is composed of three polycrystalline diamond plates that form a sparkling surface against which a set of rhodium-plated hands indicate the time. The aforementioned Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph boasts 65 hours of power reserve and extensive hand finishing, making this Plasma one heck of a statement piece, both outside and in.

Diameter: 44 mmMovement: TAG Heuer Calibre Heuer 02T Nanograph COSC AutomaticPower Reserve: 65 hoursPrice: CHF 500,000

TAG Heuer’s Aquaracer line is most typically associated with the high seas, representing as it does the famous chronograph maker’s take on the contemporary dive watch. However, utility and flair are, as we know, most decidedly not mutually exclusive. To wit, the new Aquaracer Professional 200—two solid-gold takes on the brand’s popular aquatic timepiece. Available in 18K 5N rose gold or 18K 3N yellow gold, both are thoroughly modern divers powered by the brand’s new manufacture movement, the COSC-certified Calibre TH31-00, which boasts an 80-hour power reserve and comes complete with a five-year warranty.

The first such Aquaracer models with solid gold cases and bezels, each 40mm sports watch features a contrasting, DLC-coated crown and a DLC-coated Grade 2 titanium caseback with a sapphire window. Water resistant to 200m and featuring striking fumé gradient dials (blue on the yellow gold model and black on the rose gold), they come paired to blue or black rubber straps with DLC Grade 2 titanium folding clasps. A liberal application of SuperLumi-Nova ensures visibility below or above the waves, making the Auqaracer Professional 2000 an excellent everyday option for summertime adventures.

(Meanwhile, if solid gold is too much gold, you may be interested in two new bi-color editions of the gold Aquaracer Professional 200, available with bezel inlay, crown, and dial detailing in 18K yellow or rose gold. Two models at 40mm are powered by the automatic TAG Heuer Calibre 5, while two ladies’ models at 30mm feature fumé mother of pearl dials with diamond-set indices, and are powered by the automatic Calibre 9 movement.)

Diameter: 40 mmMovement: TAG Heuer Calibre 5 AutomaticPower Reserve: 38 hoursPrice: TBC

The story of the Carrera Chronograph continues apace with the introduction of several new models this year. Two of these are fresh colorways that bring (even more) automotive influence to a watch designed way back in 1963 and named after the famed Carrera Panamericana race that took place in Mexico: Available in black or blue, each watch boasts bright orange pops of color that recall the speedometers on vintage race cars. Measuring 42mm in stainless steel, each also features a triple-register chronograph with recessed hour and minute totalizers, a running seconds totalizer above 6 o’clock, a lumed sword handset, and an outer 1/5th-second track positioned along the rehaut.

Uniquely, both models have date windows placed in different spots on the dial: the blue variant’s date is situated within the running second’s display above 6 o’clock, while on the black model, it can be found below 12 o’clock, recalling certain vintage Carrera “Dato” models. Paired to matching calfskin leather straps in blue or black, each is powered by the automatic Calibre Heuer02 movement, is water resistant to 100m, and features a display caseback.

Case Size: 42 mmMovement: TAG Heuer Calibre HEUER02 Automatic Power Reserve: 80 hoursPrice: TBC

Perhaps the most exciting TAG Heuer release of the year for diehard Carrera fans, the new TAG Heuer Carrera “Glassbox” models are the direct descendants of the original 1963 racing chronograph—vintage reissues aside. Jack Heuer famously suffused his original Carrera watch with subtle midcentury influences found in the likes of Oscar Niemeyer’s architecture, or Ludwig Mies van der Rohe’s furniture, giving this small chronograph the subtleties and thoughtful touches that made it a horological classic. Likewise, the new 39m stainless steel “Glassbox” models—so called because their sapphire crystals resemble the profile of the acrylic crystals used on original 1960s watches—feature a bevy of thoughtful touches:

The curved sapphire crystal effortlessly flows over a tachymeter scale that runs along the dial edge, allowing the scale to be read from a wider variety of vantage points. This edge curves inward to reveal a 1/5th-seconds track along a flange that frames the applied dial indices, while a triple-register chronograph in recessed totalizers blends into a blue dial, or pops against a black main dial in a “panda” effect. A lumed sword handset and a date at 12 o’clock (black dial) or 6 o’clock (blue dial) finish the contemporary look. Powered by the automatic TH20-02 caliber—an updated version of the Heuer 02 chronograph movement with elevated finishing and bi-directional winding—round out this most excellent update to a true classic.

(There’s also a tourbillon-equipped version housed in a 42mm version of the Carrera case, powered by the automatic Calibre TH20-09 Automatic COSC movement and boasting a dual-register chronograph display. Paired to a blue calfskin strap, it’s a notable model within the greater catalog—and all the more special because of TAG Heuer’s positioning as more of an entry-level brand that doesn’t typically delve too far into such elite complications as the tourbillon.

Case Size: 42 mmMovement: TAG Heuer Calibre TH20-09 Automatic COSCPower Reserve: 65 hoursPrice: TBC

Ulysse Nardin Freak One

Ulysse Nardin is introducing the ultimate Freak in honor of the game-changing watch it launched in 2001. Designed by notable watchmaker and physicist Dr. Ludwig Oechslin, the Freak represented a fresh expression of watchmaking. It had no dial – just an open view of the movement. Nor did it have hands- time was indicated by a one-hour carrousel tourbillon that pointed to an index as it rotated. And instead of a crown, time was set by winding a device on the caseback that was connected to a system built into the bezel. The new Freak One recaptures the spirit of the original 2001 Freak and adopts the best innovations introduced in the eight variations that have appeared since. It is regulated by a silicon hairspring first introduced in 2008, along with an escapement treated with shock-resistant DIAMonSIL, was first applied to the Freak in 2007. It repeats the iconic notched bezel of the original 2001 Freak, the open gear train of the Freak Cruiser of 2013, and the legibility codes of the 2018 Freak Vision. The black DLC-coated titanium and rose gold detailing echoes other recent Freak iterations, such as last year’s Freak S.

Case Size: 44 mm by 12 mmCase Material: Black DLC-coated titaniumPower Reserve: 72 hoursStraps: Black textured rubber, black alligator two-tone rubberPrice: $68,600

It’s a retrograde year for Vacheron Constantin. The display, which requires extreme precision, is a longtime tradition for the brand, a complication in itself that became popular in the 1920s. Vacheron is applying it to three new models this year. The first is the Traditionelle Tourbillon Retrograde, which combines a tourbillon with a retrograde date display. The movement, automatic caliber 2162 R31, is visible on the openworked dial and given a slate grey NAC surface treatment that contrasts with the traditional features of the watch. The date is tracked on a retrograde arc across the top half of the dial. Once the arrow hand reaches the 31, it jumps back to the beginning at the next date change, starting at 1 again. The watch retains the main design codes of the Traditionelle line, including stepped round case and lugs, a fluted caseback, a slim bezel, a railway minute-track, bi-faceted Dauphine hands and gold baton-style hour-markers. It is finished to Geneva Hallmark standards.

Case Size: 41 mm x 11.07 mmCase Material: 18k pink goldPower Reserve: 72 hoursStraps: Gray alligatorPrice: TBC

The combination of platinum case, salmon dial and double retrograde is enough to tell you that this is a watch will be a fast sell-out. This boutique-only edition won’t last. The dial is classically minimalist, with needle-thin central hour and minute hands and eccentric details like long pointed hash marks at 3, 6 and 9 o’clock, pearled 18k white gold minute markers and an 18k gold Maltese cross, the brand’s logo, at 12 o’clock. The date/day retrograde arcs at top and bottom are marked by skeletonized blued steel hands.

Case Size: 42.5 mm x 9.7 mmCase Material: PlatinumPower Reserve: 40 hoursStraps: Blue alligatorPrice: TBC

This is Vacheron’s first sports watch with a retrograde display, and a very rare example of a retrograde moon phase arc. The moon phases are displayed through a 6 o’clock aperture and also read on a graduated from 0 to 29½, indicating the number of days elapsed since the last new moon. It’s a precision moon phase, requiring a one-day correction only once every 122 years. The retrograde date arc above is subtle, with a blue hand over the background of a blue dial. The watch retains the signature features of the Overseas collection: six-sided bezel evoking the Maltese cross, fluted crown, polished and satin-brushed finishes, translucent lacquered dial, luminescent hour-markers and hands. it is Geneva Hallmark certified.

Case Size: 41 mm x 10.48 mmCase Material: Stainless steelPower Reserve: 40 hoursStraps: Stainless steel; calfskin leather; blue rubberPrice: TBC

One of Van Cleef’s introductions for 2023 is a universe unto itself. Following on the groundwork laid by its Planetarium watches, introduced in 2014, and a massive automaton clock unveiled at Watches and Wonders last year, is a new edition of the Planetarium Automoton clock that offers a new combination of materials. This version is complemented with a black Aventurine glass dial, which helps to make the sparkling sun at the center and the seven planets that revolve around it look like they’re floating in outer space. It’s even accompanied by a special melody created in partnership with Swiss musician Michel Tirabosco.

Dimensions: 50 cm x 66.5 cmPower Reserve: 15 daysMovement: Automaton and mechanical movements including a planétarium and 11 other modules such as hour/minute display, perpetual calendar

This is the first of two unique automaton clocks Van Cleef & Arpels dedicated to nature and created with the help of the Francois Junod workshop. On command, they both open their floral crowns and reveal a butterfly hidden within the petals of the blooom atop the piece. This model, the Floraison du Nénuphar, hides its butterfly completely inside its lotus-like flowers. Once it opens, the butterfly appears to hover, and flaps its wings in a natural motion for a few seconds before returning to the interior of the flower, which closes around it to complete the spectacle. It tells time with a ring on the outside of the base of the clock, around which a winged figure revolves to mark the time.

Dimensions: 27 cm x 21.5 cmPower Reserve: 8 daysMovement: Automaton and mechanical movements

This clock’s animation is similar, but the flowers that surround the butterfly reveal a little more than its fellow new debut. At the touch of the button, their stems fall away and allow the enamel-painted insect inside to float above the petals momentarily, where it also flaps its wings before disappearing inside the pink enamel petals once more.

Dimensions: 27 cm x 21.5 cmPower Reserve: 8 daysMovement: Automaton and mechanical movements

Van Cleef & Arpels relaunched its Perlée collection last year with a new motif: beaded gold. It resembles the art of granulation, in which gold balls soldered onto a gold surface, but on the Perlée collection the effect is cast, so the row of beads is already solidly attached to the surface of the gold and then finished and polished by hand. Five new models in this delicately feminine collection (four with a 23mm case and one with a 30mm case) have decorative dials of pavé-set diamonds, guillochérose gold or guilloché mother-of pearl. Each comes with an interchangeable alligator strap along with second option from the collection. There is also a jewelry bracelet, composed of articulated gold beads.

Case Size: 23 mm or 30 mmCase Material: 18k white or rose goldMovement: quartzStraps: Alligator or 18k gold braceletPrice: Upon Request

Van Cleef takes the gold beaded motif to yet another level with this series of six pendant watches. The locket-like pendants are like small pocket watches, with gem-set cases that swivel open to reveal the time. Three are set with the big three precious gems: either sapphire, ruby or emeralds, in either rose or yellow gold, with matching gold chains. The cases of three others are set with ornamental stones. Bezels are ringed with diamonds and the dials are mother-of-pearl.

Case Material: 18k goldMovement: quartzStraps: 18k gold chainPrice: Upon Request

The Ludo bracelet, with its tightly worked mesh-like links, is a signature Van Cleef & Arpels creation, first introduced in 1934, nearly a century ago. The flexible, brick-pattern meshwork culminates in a belt-buckle-like motif that is set with either diamonds or pink sapphires, which makes for an outstandingly creative dial surround. The Ludo Hexagone Macaron secret watch, inspired by an archival creation from 1941, has a cover entirely blanketed with mystery set emeralds. It is surrounded by arcs of large, prong-set diamonds set claw-style for intense light return. Emeralds are also set into the bracelet links for a final, elegantly assertive touch.

Case Material: 18k goldMovement: quartzStraps: 18k goldPrice: Upon Request

The magical, mysterious, enchanting fairy is a signature motif for Van Cleef & Arpels, and the Maison never seems to run out of ways to interpret the delicate sprite – often in the service of poetic complications. Here, she is interpreted in shades of pink in the form of translucent plique-à-jour and opaque enamel, along with pink sapphires. She points her magic wand to numerals on a retrograde arc to read the minutes, while the hours appear in a mother-of-pearl jump-hour window that appears to emerge from the white enamel clouds on which the fairy is poised. Her wings, head and body are formed with diamonds, which are also set into the bezel.

Case size: 33 mmCase Material: 18-karat rose goldMovement: Self-winding mechanicalStraps: AlligatorPrice: Upon Request

While you may more readily associate the pilot’s watch with Swiss brands such as IWC and German marques like Laco, Zenith has a longstanding history in the vertical that runs more than skin deep: It was way back in 1888 that the maison first filed a trademark for the French term “Pilote”—and subsequently, the English term “Pilot”—to be used on watches designed for those who would brave the skies. This year’s Pilot Automatic, then, represents a brand new, thoroughly contemporary chapter in the firm’s pilot’s watch saga: Measuring 40mm in stainless steel or black ceramic, it’s an exercise in the marriage of vintage-inspired tropes with modern watchmaking.

Both versions of the Pilot automatic feature rounded cases topped by flat-top, rounded bezels; the steel version boasts vertically satin-brushed surfaces and polished chamfers, while the black version is microblasted. Both likewise feature a modern take on the oversized “onion” crown of vintage pilot’s watches, which remains easy to manipulate—even with gloves on—and is devoid of crown guards. With its black opaline dial executed in horizontal grooves to echo the look of a vintage, corrugated metal plane, the Pilot Automatic still features large Arabic indices, an outer, white minute track, and a highly legible sword handset—echoes of classic pilot’s watches of years past.

Powered by the automatic Zenith El Primero 3620 movement with high-beat, 5Hz frequency and 60-hour power reserve, the watch comes paired with two straps: a black Cordura-effect rubber strap and a khaki Cordura-effect strap. Both feature triple-folding clasps with black PVD coating.

Case Size: 40 mmMovement: Zenith El Primero 3620 AutomaticPower Reserve: 60 hours Price: $9,600

Reserved and utilitarian as the Zenith Pilot Automatic is, Zenith must have felt there was room to riff on its revamped pilot’s watch collection and add a touch of je ne sais quois—which is precisely what the maison did when designing its Pilot Big Date Flyback. The name gives it all away: This awesome, modern take on the pilot’s watch trope includes an outsize date function, plus a chronograph with a flyback complication. Best of all: it doesn’t quite look like anything else on the market.

Measuring 42.5mm in black microblasted ceramic or stainless steel, it puts Zenith’s decades of chronograph-making expertise front and center by incorporating the El Primero 3600 movement, which has been modified specifically for these new references into the Caliber 3652. Automatically wound and beating at 5Hz, it powers an outsize date above 6 o’clock on the dial, as well as a flyback function, which allows the chronograph seconds hand to be reset to zero and re-engaged without a series of time-sucking button presses. And while the ceramic version is its own animal, the steel version pays tribute to the “Rainbow Flyback” chronograph from 1997, which was the brand’s first El Primera-based flyback model.

Case Size: 42.5 mmMovement: Zenith El Primero 3652 AutomaticPower Reserve: 60 hours Price: $13,500